We get a lot of pleasure from our hobby, especially when we can restore a piece that is so run down, that the next step for most people is to put it out on the curb because no charity will accept it. I actually felt sorry for this chair when I first saw it – it looked like it hadn’t been treated well for a long time.
This is a Danish mid-century teak dining chair designed by Eric Buck for O.D. Møbler. This gorgeous teak chair has the “floating seat” design, and came with the original vintage wool fabric. The seat supports and back support were coming apart, having been previously glued several times with lots of Elmer’s glue and even superglue. One of the seat supports was missing a large piece of the wood on the frame between the dowels. There were light-colored wood putty patches on the right arm as you can see in the photo below. And last but not least, the seat and back original fabric was soiled, dirty, but intact.
The first step in any extensive chair repair is to disassemble it as far as needed, and make needed repairs so that it is sturdy when re-glued (photo at right). No surprise that this chair came apart fairly easily with no further damage.
The seat and seat back fabric was cleaned. Every inch of the wood was gently wiped down with solvent to remove accumulated dirt, wax, and whatever else may have been there. The most work was in cleaning the glue and glue overrun from all pieces. We experimented with Danish oil and a little stain, especially on the worn arm rests, to get an even look and make the previous wood putty repair invisible.
Reassembled with new screws to replace the old stripped and rusted screws, this is the finished chair. Not exactly new…but certainly given a second lease on life.
What a great job! I have a very similar set of chairs with dining table that I am trying to clean up and restore. Please can you tell me what kind of solvent you used for this as I have never attempted this before.
Thanks Helen,
We always spend a few minutes mulling over our options before we start a piece. If there’s no polyurethane or lacquer on the wood, you can use Murphy’s soap or a little lacquer thinner. Then use #0000 steel wool with the grain to close up the grain and smooth the surface. Then apply the Danish oil, following the directions on the container.
IF HOWEVER, there is a lacquer or polyurethane finish, DO NOT use lacquer thinner as the surfaces will get gloppy and then you’re in the situation of having to strip everything – not a pretty job.
The Danish furniture lines mostly used oil finishes while most of the American furnitures use lacquers.
These are our experiences. As always, try a small spot in a not so visible area first to see what happens.
Good Luck!!!
Just bought 8 of these today..I wonder if I got a deal at 100.00 per chair. They do need cleaning but they are all very sturdy.
Thanks,
Nancy
Hi Nancy,
I think you did well. In our area (northern CA) they go for about $150 per chair. As always, what you can sell them for is what they’re worth.
Enjoy!
We recently picked up a set of 6 of these (#49s without arms) and a Skovby table for $50 USD! Pretty happy with the set so far but the original wool, which is a light oatmeal color, is very dirty. Any recommendations to clean these when warm water and dish soap won’t work?
Hi Paul, the recommended way to clean is with hot water and “pure soap flakes” which you might find at a health store. If this doesn’t work, you can try a steam cleaner with a furniture attachment. And if steam doesn’t work, your options become limited to recovering or living with it. Glad you enjoy them! And good luck!!!
Do you think a dry cleaner would be able to safely clean them?
Hi Paul, I think you could ask a cleaner who does/has done furniture to get their opinion. I wouldn’t if they haven’t done furniture before.
Looks great, what a nice job!
I’ve got a couple of the same model, trying to bring the back into life. The years had not been nice to them. Some om the plugs were either gone or needs to be replaced. Can I ask where you source yours?
Hi Gregor,
You can purchase the screw hole plugs at a good hardware store or Home Depot/Lowes. They are usually called mushroom head plugs/buttons, usually oak. You can get the size to fit the hole and stain it before just pushing it into the hole. If the hole has been enlarged over time and the button is loose, I use a teeny tiny bit of wood glue on one or two small spots to hold it.
Good luck! Retro
Beautiful! What type of wood glue and putty would you recommend? Mine is in pieces in the basement, but am in need of repairing it very soon!
Thanks, Karen
Hi Karen,
I use both Titebond and Gorilla woods glues and like them both. Be sure to wipe off all the excess glue with a wet rag or paper towel. As for putty, it’s a bit trickier. Stainable wood filler is used for large gaps and can be hard to stain, no matter what the label says. Do a practice piece first and follow directions closely, Wood putty is putty you buy to match the color of your wood, fill in small dents, and do not stain, but cover with the lacquer covering you use to finish the job. Again, practice on a separate piece of wood so you know what these materials will do with your prep and stains you use.
Good luck!!
Hi I have purchased 4 of the Erik Buck #50 O.D. Møbler Teak Dining Chairs just like the one you have reassembled. But they are not arm chairs. I have taken the chair apart and I am having the seats and the backs reupholstered. Question is do I put the chair back together completely before I put the fabric back rest on the chair?
Elaine – so sorry for such a delay. I’m sure you figured this out, but, you’d put the fabric on the back rest first, then assemble.